Ecliptech Shift-P2 shift light
Ecliptech Shift-P2 shift light
Emissions: Emissions do not apply.
There are no shipping restrictions on this item.
Warranty: 2 years
We're big fans of sequential shift lights or LED tachs. They allow you to monitor your engine speed without having to take your eyes away from the road by lighting up a series of LEDs with engine speed. It's the same sort of thing you see built into $2000 race dashboards and $50,000 Formula 1 steering wheels.
The Ecliptech Shift-P2 and Shift-P2+ take our previous favorite - the Shift-i - and extends on it. The main LEDs are the primary attraction, lighting up in sequence as you approach the redline. You can select what that sequence looks like from a series of built-in options, or on the Shift-P2+ you can program your own. It'll dim itself at cruise so you're not blinded by high-intensity LEDs when you're not working the car hard. There's also a small display screen that can give you extra information such as battery voltage or programmable alerts. The Shift-P2+ also allows you to add an analog input to trigger alerts, such as an overheating or low oil pressure condition. All the programming can be done via the keys on the tach.
Due to the variations in the installation of this product, this kit does not come with any wiring connectors included. Basic NA/NB installations do not require any connectors to be installed. Basic NC/ND installations will require up to (3) t-taps or butt-connectors. More advanced installations for all generations will require additional t-taps or butt-connectors to be installed.
The Shift-P2 can be upgraded to the Shift-P2+ with a software key.
Works with all Miatas and most other vehicles.
I'm really impressed with this little gadget. The P2+ has some cool options for additional inputs and additional config options that you can use for warning lights. I've now got unmissable flashing warnings set up for low oil pressure and high coolant temp. It's some good piece of mind and isn't distracting while driving. The shift light itself is really nice as well because you can change everything about it. Brightness, color patterns, when the colors change; you name it.
The really neat part is how well all of this is implemented in such a small form factor. There are basically only 4 buttons and a half inch screen and yet there is still such great functionality and it's relatively straightforward to navigate. Some of my favorite included features are the toggle-able pull-up resistors for each channel and the built in voltage readouts for troubleshooting. I am not an electrical engineer. I know just enough circuits to get in trouble. For each of my warning inputs I was unsure of whether I needed a pull-up resistor wired in. Didn't matter. I wired it up, used the built in scope to see if the voltage was correct and then toggled the pull-ups where needed. It's a slick setup and you can easily add a lot of neat features to your dash with this tool.
Most importantly, now I'm focusing more on driving and not glancing at my gauge cluster all the time. Thanks FM!
The directions are not explicit in that you'll need to solder into the ignition coil wires, but they should be. Additionally it is better to get ground from the bolt that holds the cabin fuse box and power from an "add a circuit" slim fuse kit. Check out Cravenspeed's instructions for adding a vent gauge pod kit: https://www.cravenspeed.com/nd-mx-5-vent-gauge-pod-kit/ . That way you'll end up with less soldering on the ignition coil wires. The way I did it require only one ignition coil wire to have its insulation removed and soldered too.
You'll also want to get some high temp tape. Google for ignition coil tape. I found a good one for Audi/VW/BMW on amazon for $7.
There was no good instructions on how to route the wire through the firewall, which is the hardest part. I went in on the hole for the steel cable that is used to release the hood latch. It has a nice little rubber shroud to keep the passenger cabin clean, and I had to cut that a bit with a razor blade to get the tach wire through. DONT DRILL! It is unnecessary. To get to the hole requires careful manuvering around hard brake lines, so I had my wife's little hands help me out, but you could definitely do it with some long calipers or a pair of hose clamp pliers.
I routed the tach wire under the brake booster because it looked the best, but you'll have to be careful to keep the wire off of the intake manifold. Not sure it matters, but I used some of the provided zipties to do so.
I should mention the kit comes with all the mounting hardware you'd want for the actual shift light. I mounted mine on the steering column in front of the tach gauge. The wires hide nicely in the shrouds of the dash. I'll try to remember to take pictures and post them here sometime.
Note from FM: we recommend crimped connections instead of soldered. Also, high temp tape is not needed because you are not dealing with the high voltage wires, just the trigger wires.
This thing is amazing. Wiring up is easy and setup is a breeze. Nice and bright with many adjustments.