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Paco Motorsports Hub Stand Kit v5.4

Paco Motorsports Hub Stand Kit v5.4

Exclusive to Flyin' Miata!

Regular price $899.00 USD
Regular price Sale price $899.00 USD
Sale Sold out
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Description

What are hub stands? They bolt on to your hubs in place of your wheels so you have full access to the suspension while the car is on the ground. They also sit on steel balls so they can move around and take any preload out of the suspension. This makes it easy to corner-weight the car and tighten up suspension bolts.

But wait, there's more! The stands are also designed to make it easy to align the car yourself. Toe and camber are dead simple, while caster and even thrust angle are straightforward. You can turn the adjusters and watch the settings change. You will need a pair of tape measures and some way to measure camber - either a smartphone or our digital gauge.

That's right, you'll never pay for an alignment again. We use these at the FM shop all the time, even if it's just to set the bushings after a suspension install.

Fits the following:

ALL MIATAS ...and....

  • All 4 bolt patterns ranging from 4 x 95.25 to 4 x 114.3 (that's 4 x 3.75" to 4 x 4.5") on cars using 12mm or 14mm stud. 
  • All 5 bolt patterns ranging from 5 x 100 to 5 x 130mm on cars using 12mm or 14mm studs.
  • For all cars, the maximum hub diameter is 72.5 mm and the weight limit is 4000 lbs (1000 lbs per stand).

Sold as a complete set of four including thrust alignment cables. If your garage floor is cracked - or perfect and you don't want to risk any potential lines in your epoxy from the steel balls - be sure to pick up a set of floor plates. 

Note that there might be a slight discrepancy (no more than 0.5°) between the camber measured with the Hub Stands and with the wheels installed. This won't change on an individual car unless you change bushings, and is a static number so it's easy to offset your measurements accordingly. 

Since these are kinda big and bulky, they can be... annoying... to store. Check out Paco Motorsport's hanger kit (above) to get them up and out of the way! 

Instructions

Shipping

Ships free in the US.
Details

Shipping restrictions: None

What does it fit?

Fits: Universal

Emissions

Emissions do not apply.

Warranty

1 year

SKU

35-70066

Customer Reviews

Based on 3 reviews
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Bryce D.
Hub Stand Review

The best tool investment I've ever made was purchasing the Paco Hub Stand Kit from Flyin' Miata (FM). It works exactly as advertised. I recently removed, replaced, and updated the entire suspension for my wife's 2014 NC3 Club. Using the Paco Hub Stands, I was able to set up a street/autocross/track day camber, castor, toe, and thrust angle alignment from scratch in about 2 hours time. FYI, the Paco Hub Stands alignment was within 5% of the measurements from a Hunter alignment rack! In addition to the Miata, I'm now using the Paco Hub Stands for time attack track day alignments for friends and my own Porsche's, Mustangs, BMW's etc. I also purchased the Hub Stand Floor Plates which are super helpful if the garage/shop floor is not smooth. Thanks FM for offering such an outstanding shop tool!

J
Jesse L.

Showed up on time well packaged and no issues at all as usual! Thanks for the great service!

C
Craig H.
So Much Better than Rotating Plates & Wood Stands and strings.

Love these things!

Originally, I bought rotating plates and built wood stands because I wanted to get my car set up and learn how to do my own suspension (I was new to dialing in a race suspension). While the rotating plates and toe plates method works OK, the Paco Hub Stands is a way better method. The fact that it has the spring-loaded toe alignment is just icing on the cake. Much easier to dial everything in.

Note that your camber may read more negative on the stands than when you get back on tires. And the drop is different front to back (0.7 front drop / 1.0 back drop). I dialed in the fronts as much as I could (2.9 max camber on stands became 2.2 back on the tires for a 0.7 drop). The rear had a 1.0 drop. So I had to put everything back on stands and set the rear camber to be -0.3 more than the fronts to get the right drop when on tires. This is pretty straightforward.

I also wish I would have purchased the plates. I thought my garage floor was good concrete, but when setting the caster and rotating the wheel, it created small ruts in the floor, so it wasn't very though concrete. I'll buy plates for next time which will make dialing in a much smoother experience.

The other nice thing is that the tires are off using this method. That means you don't need to climb under the car. You can reach the cam bolts by reaching around the brake disk.

They are a bit pricey, but glad I have them. Wish I would have purchased these first.