Ecliptech Shift-P2 shift light

Hands down best shift light setup for miatas! Easy install 👌 and very satisfying results that I see with every drive 🚗 thanks Flyin' Miata you guys always are awesome!

I recently purchased a basic P2 shift-light package for my 2017 supercharged ND Miata. I had a definite purpose in making this purchase. I have a tendency to bump into the rev limiter while carrying out high-speed passes. This is very dangerous, suddenly losing power when your doing 85+ mph in a high speed passing situation. Moreover, I really don't want to take my eyes off the road to check the tach when passing at high speeds and auditory feedback (for me, at least) is unreliable. I bought the P2 shift light specifically to serve as a secondary warning stimulus in my peripheral vision. To make a long story short, installation went without any big problems, the mounting position was beautiful (centered in front of the tach on the downward sloping portion of the cover directly behind the steering wheel). Which brings me to my only complaint: the User's Instruction Guide is pretty poorly written, particularly in terms of the of the different programing options that are available to you the with the P2 vs. the more expensive P2+ model (available YouTube and company videos also sorta blow). Lucky for me, I was able to work out a simple solution to my problem ( I used the default G-A-R series starting it at 3,000 rpm and ending at 6500 rpm automatically making each of the seven lights equal to 500 rpm). However, I knew a lot, going in, about my car's particular power curve from prior dyno readings. In summary, if you want to do anything a whole lot more complicated than relatively straight forward stuff or to draw on the various multi-functions in the chip, you're probably better off buying the P2+, rather than the basic P2. For me the P2 was perfect, but you need to carefully consider exactly what you intend to do with this product and why you want it before choosing between the two options. Other than that, all thumbs up!

I'm really impressed with this little gadget. The P2+ has some cool options for additional inputs and additional config options that you can use for warning lights. I've now got unmissable flashing warnings set up for low oil pressure and high coolant temp. It's some good piece of mind and isn't distracting while driving. The shift light itself is really nice as well because you can change everything about it. Brightness, color patterns, when the colors change; you name it.

The really neat part is how well all of this is implemented in such a small form factor. There are basically only 4 buttons and a half inch screen and yet there is still such great functionality and it's relatively straightforward to navigate. Some of my favorite included features are the toggle-able pull-up resistors for each channel and the built in voltage readouts for troubleshooting. I am not an electrical engineer. I know just enough circuits to get in trouble. For each of my warning inputs I was unsure of whether I needed a pull-up resistor wired in. Didn't matter. I wired it up, used the built in scope to see if the voltage was correct and then toggled the pull-ups where needed. It's a slick setup and you can easily add a lot of neat features to your dash with this tool.

Most importantly, now I'm focusing more on driving and not glancing at my gauge cluster all the time. Thanks FM!

The directions are not explicit in that you'll need to solder into the ignition coil wires, but they should be. Additionally it is better to get ground from the bolt that holds the cabin fuse box and power from an "add a circuit" slim fuse kit. Check out Cravenspeed's instructions for adding a vent gauge pod kit: https://www.cravenspeed.com/nd-mx-5-vent-gauge-pod-kit/ . That way you'll end up with less soldering on the ignition coil wires. The way I did it require only one ignition coil wire to have its insulation removed and soldered too.

You'll also want to get some high temp tape. Google for ignition coil tape. I found a good one for Audi/VW/BMW on amazon for $7.

There was no good instructions on how to route the wire through the firewall, which is the hardest part. I went in on the hole for the steel cable that is used to release the hood latch. It has a nice little rubber shroud to keep the passenger cabin clean, and I had to cut that a bit with a razor blade to get the tach wire through. DONT DRILL! It is unnecessary. To get to the hole requires careful manuvering around hard brake lines, so I had my wife's little hands help me out, but you could definitely do it with some long calipers or a pair of hose clamp pliers.

I routed the tach wire under the brake booster because it looked the best, but you'll have to be careful to keep the wire off of the intake manifold. Not sure it matters, but I used some of the provided zipties to do so.

I should mention the kit comes with all the mounting hardware you'd want for the actual shift light. I mounted mine on the steering column in front of the tach gauge. The wires hide nicely in the shrouds of the dash. I'll try to remember to take pictures and post them here sometime.

Note from FM: we recommend crimped connections instead of soldered. Also, high temp tape is not needed because you are not dealing with the high voltage wires, just the trigger wires.

This thing is amazing. Wiring up is easy and setup is a breeze. Nice and bright with many adjustments.