Performance specialists

Definitely one of the easiest appearance upgrades I’ve done. I think it took longer to write the review than do the work. Once again your excellent video was very helpful.
Thank you FM

The backup camera came in complete. Your video on installation was spot on and gave me the confidence to tackle this project. A couple of hours time and it was finished, I was deliberately slow and careful, it all worked without a hitch.
Thank you FM.

I have a 91 chassis with a 94 motor on blackbird drop mounts (lowers motor by a claimed 1/2") using Roadster Sport header and Roadster Sport catback exhaust. I was concerned that since the listing mentions that clearance can be tight on some exhausts, the fact that I was running a lower motor mount might exacerbate that issue. I am very glad though that with my setup I have plenty of clearance. I did buy FMs poly exhaust bushings though to make sure my rubber ones wouldn't give me problems.

Because I am running poly control arm bushings, diff bushings, and engine mounts, I used to struggle with a lot of interior rattles. I was working on stiffening the chassis and this was the last modification on that route that I got around to. Before this I had installed a Hard Dog M2 roll bar, Cybul strut tower brace, Paco strong arms, and Flyin Miata rear cannon subframe brace. All of these increased rigidity of the car in positive ways, but did not really do much in terms of combating the rattles. But as soon as I got the frame rails and butterfly brace on then those rattles are almost completely eliminated (a certain low RPM, probably somewhere between idle and 2.2k or so, still has a bit of rattling). Also, the stiffness difference with this piece, even though I had done everything else before, was night and day better. Really happy with how the car feels now.

I was able to install this by myself without too much work, but it wasn't straight forward. I had significant stock frame rail damage on my Miata, so it took a lot of "convincing" to get the frame rails installed. Had to reshape the stock frame rails with a lot of hammering to get anywhere close to getting the frame rails installed. This ended up helping with installation though as the frame rails gripped the chassis without need of me using a jack or my hands to hold it in place.

Obviously this will reduce your ground clearance. My Miata runs lower (I don't know what stock ride height is, so I have never measured my current ride height). This makes it so it is really hard to get out of my driveway since my city decided that half curbs are a decent approach... :( Anyway, I have to be careful of that, and I accidentally clobbered a small rock that had eroded off the mountain, while canyon carving, that I didn't expect to make contact. The rock was only a few inches tall, but I wasn't used to thinking about the butterfly brace being the lowest point on the car when deciding whether I should cut across the double yellow to avoid the rock.

Again I really like this setup, I like how it mounts up to the car, I love the stiffness and reduced rattles that it offers, and overall it has good quality to it.

Easy to install and much better than the stock light in trunk

I got these to reduce the door vibration in my 1997 M edition. Much Better! worth the $20.

As many have said, it's a bit intimidating to tear your car apart to install the camera, but the instructional video is great and the whole process went very smoothly. For me, the hardest part was reinstalling the screen module with all of the new wiring behind it (I also installed an Apple Carplay/Andriod Auto upgrade while I had things torn apart) Will definitely go to Flyin' Miata for any future upgrades.

I was kind of worried they would squeak as the car flexed, but the installation is very easy and there are no squeaks. I can't tell if the car is any stiffer, but it's a 1990 so it's not very stiff to begin with. Oh, and they are a little lighter than the original bushings, so there's that.

I put these in the two light switches in my 1990 and now there is a ton more light when I open the doors. Nice upgrade! Easy to install. I went with the warm white and the color is about the same as stock, just brighter.

great looking piece, very easy to install. Love the bright color as well.

Like stated in the title, I would modify the depth or even cut access slots for wiring. When I routed my wire originally, I went to place the vent and the wire was in the way. I ended up drilling a hole through the actual vent duct and running it that way to the gauge. In hind sight, I should’ve modified the pod itself to accommodate.

Other than that, fit is perfect, snaps right in and is secure, accepts the AEM wideband gauge snuggly.

I used this tool to remove the valves from my cylinder head with it removed from the vehicle. I used wooden blocks to support the valves from the bottom side and it worked beautifully. In my opnion better than a traditional valve spring tool even if the head is removed.

I’ve been trying to clean up my engine bay and I was tired of the old, faded, and cumbersome plastic tanks. But, I didn’t want to give up my windshield washer. Installing this relocation kit and overflow tank seriously tidied up my engine bay and I couldn’t be happier!

Installation was easy and everything is thoughtfully planned out. Flyin Miata parts have always been a step above the competition. My only complaint is that the electrical plugs are not of OEM quality and do not click together easily, but they work fine. I ended up ordering a new pump grommet, washer refresh kit, and sprayer heads after everything I touched disintegrated during the install. These cars are 30 years old and if you’re looking to purchase this I would recommend purchasing all new items, or at least budgeting some additional funds to replace these items if things go sideways during install.

As usual, FM had a very useful and thorough writeup of this battery, which included potential caveats and a detailed installation video.

I use my car primarily for autocross, and so its usage pattern is to just set in the garage for a week or so, then drive 10-150 miles to a weekend event. I have used ATX-20-HD for 6 autocross events so far, and it's performed perfectly. For each event, the car is idling in the grid for about 90 minutes.

I bought a CTEK 56-926 LiFePO4 trickle charger, and typically keep it on the battery during the week. But just to test, I disconnected the charger for 5 days (with the battery still connected to the car), and there was barely any drain (voltage went from 13.3v to 13.1v).

The weight savings is insane (see attached pics).

The mounting case is also well constructed, and additionally looks great in the engine bay.

Removing the OEM battery + tray, and installing the new battery + case was very easy -- 20 minutes or so. HOWEVER, replacing the OEM (+) battery cable with the longer one provided in the kit was a bit of a pain logistically speaking (watch the FM install video).

Suggestion to FM: Instead of including a longer battery cable to account for the fact that the Antigravity battery is shorter, it'd be cool if the mount kit were designed with a rise so that the new battery is the same height as the OEM battery.... then you could just use the existing (+) cable.

All that being said, I am completely satisfied with the purchase and customer service!

Did not expect how noticeable the improvements would be, if you are considering these just do it. Car stays incredibly flat on turns and I'm not even on the stiffest settings, noticeable even on turns around town.

If you have an NB, you might consider replacing the end links at the same time to avoid the headache of dealing with removing the end link nuts off the bolts that you have to hold with an Allen wrench. One would not budge for me and I had to grind it off. PB blaster is your friend. Contrary to what the instructions said, I found the rear install to be more difficult because it's harder to reach the end link nuts, so I just removed the end links with the bar and got the nuts while off the car.

Best thing ever I love flying Miata